1940’s film noir dominated Milan’s Fashion Week this year. The ghosts of Veronica Lake and Lauren Bacall slinked through the halls of haute couture, batting their cat eyes and flouncing their brushed out curls. The gym hair and anti-makeup crusade of previous seasons are definitely Gone with the Wind. Here are the 7 Cardinal Takeaways from this season’s showings. Il est temps pour Paris.
Photo: Sonny Vandelvelde / Indigital.tv
Hair is at the top of the list again this season. It’s teased and blown and curled in orgiastic abandon until it screams “Look at me!” Artist Petra collins puffed up the ochre mane for a cumulous effect. Model Mical Bockru (shown) boasted a coif that went shoulder to shoulder. Salon Stella Jean has put the faux ‘fro back in the forefront, with a subtle blend of texture and textiles. And if you’re clueless about curls . . . the body wave is back, baby.
Photo: Courtesy of Irina Shayk / @irinashayk
Blood-red lipstick, as bold as sin, is back in the saddle once again. At Max Mara and Prada, the red lips were succulent and inviting — redder than the bright apple the wicked queen offered to Disney’s Snow White. And just as deadly, in a campy sort of way. The femme fatale lip glow, tinged with a shade of merlot, stood out like sensual beacons on a rocky shore at Bottega Veneta (shown).
Photo: Courtesy of Paul Hanlon / @paulhanlonhair
The Hitchcockian heroines of the 1940’s had hair to die for. And the master director’s fashion sense is once again seen in the hair accessories on display this season in Milan. There were polished finger waves at Marni’s (shown) and bold black bows and dazzling gem-encrusted headbands at Dolce & Gabbana. No wonder Cary Grant had such a roguish smile in all those Hitchcock films — he could make love to the hairstyles without bothering about the ladies underneath!
Photo: Courtesy of Art + Commerce / @artandcommerce
Eyes burning in the night . . .
Kohl-washed orbs that lead men (and women) to their doom . . .
In Milan, it was movie-poster psychedelic mascara, thanks to Karl Lagerfeld, and seen on display as dots, swirls, arcs, and curlicues at Fendi. When it comes to the eyes this season, don’t look before you leap — just leap.
Eyelashes have gone murky in Milan this season. Roberto Cavalli and Versace (shown) are offering up a blurred indistinct lash line look at once shaded and shady. How can something so smoky be at the same time so sharp? Play with your black pencil and put your bottle of liquid eye liner in the recycling bin.Photo: Aitor Rosas / Indigital.tv
Photo: Aitor Rosas / Indigital.tv
A sparkling barrette or lavish comb in the bun is no longer an extravaganza on a Rodarte runway. But Laura and Kate Malleavy are turning up the heat with their sassy and intricate new hair creations for the Fall season. Cast metal coronets burnished with metallic orchids that twinkle like naughty stars with the help of semi-precious stones, under the tender care of hair stylists at Beautylicious Salon, slid back onto ears in a louch manner reminiscent of film noir siren Lisbeth Scott. Wisps of hair left to dangle alluringly in front completed the effect, as if just emerging from an erotic tete-a-tete with Alan Ladd or Humphrey Bogart.
Gems and live blossoms also worked together in weaves and ear cuffs by L.A. florist Joseph Free. Aubergine lip gloss complemented the look, turning models into Frida Kahlo votaries. All that was lacking was the mono-brow. And fashionistas may yet see THAT in 2017 . . .
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv